Every job we do comes with the knowledge to keep it that way, and the option to hand it back to us whenever you'd rather not. Pick your service below for the aftercare that applies to it.
The coating goes on as a liquid and hardens onto the paint over the following seven days. That week is the only period where normal use can damage it. After that it is genuinely tough, and the job becomes washing it correctly and letting us check it twice a year.
Each window sits inside the one below it. Clear the last one and the car goes back to normal use.
Ideally don't drive it at all. Under cover if you have a garage or carport. The coating is still soft and anything landing on it now can mark the finish permanently.
No water on the paint at all. If it has to sit outside, don't park under trees and move it before heavy rain. Rain landing on a soft coating is the most common cause of water spotting in a fresh install.
The glass coating needs to harden before the blades sweep across it. Don't use the washers either. If you get caught out and the screen needs clearing, pull over and use a clean microfibre.
No shampoo, no pressure washer, no quick detailer, nothing abrasive. You can drive normally from day two. If bird lime or a fuel spill lands on it, rinse that spot with plain water straight away and leave the rest alone.
Back to normal. Wash it using the method below and it will keep performing for the full life of the coating.
Some wiper judder in the first two weeks is normal and settles on its own
The short list. Everything here either shortens the life of the coating or voids the warranty outright.
Spinning brushes put swirl marks straight through a coating and they do it in a single visit. This voids your warranty, no exceptions.
Same outcome, different route. One bucket, a dirty sponge, and the grit off the last twenty cars. If in doubt, don't let anyone touch it.
It sits on the coating instead of bonding to it, blocks the water behaviour and dulls the finish. The coating is the protection. Nothing goes over it.
Water dries on the panel faster than you can dry it and leaves mineral spotting etched into the surface. Early morning, evening, or in the shade.
Bird lime, tree sap and fuel are all acidic. A coating buys you time, not immunity. Get them off the same day and it will never be an issue.
Never wipe a mark or a bit of dust off dry paint, not even with a clean microfibre. Always put water or a detail spray down as lubricant first.
Two buckets, one mitt, top to bottom. Around forty minutes, every two to three weeks. More often through a salted winter.
Pressure washer or hose over the whole car first. Most of the grit that causes scratches comes off here, before a mitt goes anywhere near the paint.
If you have a foam lance, let it sit five minutes. Don't let it dry on the panel. Rinse off completely before you start contact washing.
One with pH neutral shampoo, one with plain rinse water, grit guards in both. Rinse the mitt in the plain bucket after every single panel.
Roof, glass, upper panels, then lower panels and sills last. Straight lines, no circles. A second mitt for the bottom quarter of the car.
Own bucket, own brushes. Brake dust is iron and it will scratch paint instantly. Wheel kit never goes near the bodywork, ever.
Sheet the water off with an open hose, then a soft drying towel with detail spray as lubricant, or a blower. Never leave it to air dry.
Nothing with wax, gloss or added protection in it. Those leave a film sitting on the coating that kills the water behaviour you paid for.
New product, new tool, or a mark you're not sure about. One message before you touch it costs nothing. Fixing it afterwards does.
Both are completely fine. Plenty of clients enjoy washing their own car. Plenty would rather never think about it again.
Everything you need is on this page. Ask us anything, any time, and we'll talk you through it properly.
Same standard as the day we coated it. We arrive with water, power and everything else. You don't need to be there.
A coating isn't maintenance free. It's maintenance easy. The cars that still look like this in year four are the ones seen twice a year.
The baseline. Keeps the coating clean, sharp and doing what it should between annual services.
The one that keeps your warranty live and catches anything before it becomes a problem.
Something's landed on it, someone's put it through a car wash, or you just want it looking right before an event.
Registered to your vehicle on the day of application, and it stays with the car if you sell it.
Crystal Serum Light with EXO v5 over the top. Covers coating failure, delamination, loss of water repellency and premature gloss loss under normal use.
CQuartz 3.0. Same cover, shorter term.
Or roughly 20,000 miles, whichever comes first. Glass wears faster than paint because the wipers physically abrade it every time they sweep. That's why the term is shorter.
The warranty stays live with a yearly service through Pineworks. We'll get in touch when yours is due.
It follows the car, not the owner. If you sell it, let us know and we'll reissue the warranty to the new keeper.
Stone chips, scratches, dents and accident damage. A coating is chemical protection with real hardness, but it is not armour.
Any automatic or hand car wash. Brush marring is visible and identifiable under inspection light, and it ends the warranty on the affected panels.
Etching from bird lime, sap or fuel left to sit. Also anything caused by a third party polishing, waxing or machine working the paint.
Any panel refinished after application. The coating doesn't carry over onto new paint. Tell us and we'll recoat that panel.
Full terms are in your printed booklet and at Terms of Service. If something looks wrong with the coating, send a photo before you try to fix it yourself.
Machine polishing physically removes a layer of clearcoat to level out swirls and scratches. What we took off is gone for good, and so are the defects. But bare corrected paint is the most vulnerable it will ever be, and swirls come back the same way they arrived: from how the car gets washed. How you look after it from here decides whether this lasts one year or five.
Shorter than a coating, because the protection layer we've applied is thinner. Still worth getting right.
The finishing protection needs to bond before it sees water. Under cover if you can. If it must sit outside, keep it away from trees and sprinklers.
Rain on freshly applied protection can leave spotting that has to be polished back out. Drive it from day two by all means, just watch the forecast on day one.
Let the protection fully harden before anything contacts the paint. Rinse off bird lime with plain water straight away if it lands, and leave the rest.
There's no cure window after this. From here, the single thing that determines how long the finish lasts is how the car gets washed. That's the whole game.
Corrected paint has less clearcoat than it did. There is a limit to how many times it can be done
Every swirl mark we removed was put there by something on this list. Avoid these and the finish holds.
The single fastest way to undo everything. One visit can put back more swirls than we spent a full day removing. Nothing else comes close.
One bucket, a shared sponge, the grit off every car before yours. The results look fine in the moment and terrible in direct sun a month later.
The most common cause of new swirls on a corrected car. Never move a cloth across dry paint. Water or detail spray first, every single time.
Circular motions turn a single scratch into a spiral you can see from across the car park. Straight lines, front to back, always.
A dropped microfibre picks up grit and becomes sandpaper. If it hits the floor, it goes in the wash, not back on the car.
Without a coating, bird lime etches into corrected paint faster. Same day removal matters more here than on a coated car, not less.
This is the aftercare. There is nothing else you need to do, and nothing that matters more.
Every bit of grit you remove with water is grit that never gets dragged across the paint by a mitt. Be generous here.
Five minutes, don't let it dry. On uncoated paint this pre-wash stage does more work than it does on a coated car.
Non-negotiable on corrected paint. One shampoo, one plain rinse, guards in both. The mitt gets rinsed after every panel.
Front to back, never circles. Roof and glass first, sills and lower quarters last, with a second mitt for the dirty bottom section.
Cheap sponges hold grit against the paint. A quality microfibre or lambswool mitt, retired the moment it looks tired.
Soft drying towel with a detail spray, or a blower. Dragging a dry towel over dry paint is how swirls get back on.
The finishing layer we applied lasts months, not years. A spray sealant every few washes keeps it protected.
The honest answer: a ceramic coating over corrected paint is what makes correction last. It's the reason most clients only correct once.
Corrected paint rewards care more than any other finish. If you'd rather not carry that, we'll carry it for you.
Wash it right and you'll keep the finish for years. We'll tell you exactly what to buy if you want a shopping list.
A protection top-up takes us a couple of hours and resets the clock on the finish. No effort from you at all.
Correction removes clearcoat, so it can't be repeated indefinitely. Protecting it properly is what stops you needing it again.
A maintenance wash with fresh sealant over the top. Keeps the correction sealed and the gloss where we left it.
A ceramic coating over freshly corrected paint locks the finish in for years. Cheaper now than as a separate job later, because the prep is already done.
Light marring from a year of driving, or one specific area that's picked up damage. Far less invasive than a full correction.
A Signature Detail resets the car completely, inside and out. There's no cure window and nothing fragile about it, so you can drive it straight away. What decides how long it stays looking like this is what happens over the next few weeks, and that's mostly about how it gets washed and how quickly the interior gets on top of things again.
Short list. Drive it, enjoy it, and give the protection layer a day to settle.
If we've applied a wax or sealant finish, give it half a day before it gets wet. Drive it normally, just don't wash it or park it under a sprinkler.
Dressings on trim and leather need a day to fully absorb. Avoid eating in the car and don't put anything heavy or abrasive on freshly dressed surfaces.
If we've cleaned the glass inside, avoid touching it while any residual product settles. Give mats a day before they go back under wet shoes if you can.
That's it. From here it's just keeping on top of it, and the method below is how you do that without undoing the work.
Ask us what protection was applied to your car and how long it should last
None of these are dramatic. They're just the things that quietly take a detailed car back to average.
They strip the protection we applied and add swirls at the same time. One visit undoes most of the exterior work.
Dust on the bonnet, a quick wipe with a cloth, and you've put a scratch in. Water or detail spray first, every time.
It strips wax and sealant on contact and dries out plastic trim. Only proper pH neutral car shampoo goes on the paint.
Water spots dry onto the panel before you can get to them, and they're a lot harder to remove than they are to avoid.
Harsh interior cleaners strip the dressings, dry out leather and leave a shiny film on the dash. Damp microfibre handles almost everything.
Ten minutes a fortnight keeps it near where we left it. Three months of nothing means starting from the beginning again.
Exterior every two to three weeks, interior ten minutes a fortnight. That's the whole routine.
Whole car with a hose or pressure washer before a mitt goes near it. This one habit prevents most wash-induced scratching.
One shampoo, one plain rinse. Rinse the mitt between panels. Never washing up liquid, never a household sponge.
Roof and glass down to sills last. The bottom quarter of the car is the dirtiest part and deserves its own mitt.
Soft drying towel with a little detail spray as lubricant. Air drying leaves water spots that need polishing out later.
A spray sealant after every second or third wash keeps the beading and the slickness where we left them.
Ten minutes a fortnight. Vacuum the mats, damp microfibre over the dash and door cards. No product needed for most of it.
Coffee on fabric is a five minute job today and a specialist extraction next month. Blot, don't rub, and tell us if it's stubborn.
One to clean, one dry to buff. Streak-free glass makes the whole car feel freshly detailed even when it isn't.
Most people manage the fortnightly wash and want us back for the deep work. That's exactly what the plans below are for.
The method above is all of it. Tell us what kit you've got and we'll tell you what's worth upgrading.
Regular clients get priority booking and a standing slot. Most don't think about their car between visits at all.
Regular beats intensive. A car kept on top of never needs a rescue job, and it costs less over a year.
The regular. Keeps the car permanently near where we left it, and takes us a fraction of the time a full detail does.
The full detail again, top to bottom. Brings the car back to the standard it was at when we first handed it over.
Something specific has happened, or the car needs to look its best on a particular date.
Almost every job comes from someone who has already had their car done. Pass our name on and it comes back to you.
Ask. It doesn't matter how long ago we did your car, or whether you're booking anything. If it's about looking after your paint, we'll answer it.
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