ジェイディーエム

japanese cars,
done properly.

Pineworks was built on Japanese car culture. The katakana on the van is not decoration, and 完璧主義 is not a tagline we found in a font book. If you own something from Japan that you actually care about, this page is the one written for you.

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Why it matters

japanese paint is not the same paint.

Most detailers treat a 1998 Skyline the same way they treat a 2024 Audi. They are not the same job, and approaching them the same way is how original cars get ruined.

Japanese cars of the nineties and early two-thousands generally left the factory with thinner clear coat than their European contemporaries, and a lot of the signature colours are known to the community for exactly this reason. Bayside Blue and Millennium Jade fade. Championship White yellows and is famously difficult to match. Classic Red on an early MX-5 was single stage, so there is no clear coat at all and every polish takes colour off, not lacquer. WR Blue oxidises on the roof and bonnet first, because that is where the sun sits.

The other half of the problem is not the paint, it is the parts. A scuffed bumper on a modern car is a supply chain question. On a car where that panel has not been made for twenty years and the OEM part number is discontinued, it is a completely different conversation. That changes how carefully you work, and it changes what counts as an acceptable risk.

Our rule on original cars: if we cannot replace it, we do not gamble with it. We would rather leave a defect in and tell you why than take a machine somewhere it should not go.
  • Paint depth gauge on every panel before any machine work
  • No machine polishing near decals, badges or trim we cannot replace
  • Hand work around arch lips, spoiler edges and vents
  • Single stage paint identified before anything touches it
  • Honest answer on clear coat failure versus surface oxidation
  • Nothing dressed, glossed or silicone-coated that should be matte
Original paintThin clear coat Single stageDiscontinued panels Period decalsShow prep
Known issues

what we look for, by car.

Not an exhaustive list, and not a substitute for looking at your actual car. But if you own one of these, you already know at least one of these problems.

R32 / R33 / R34 GT-R

Thin factory clear. Bayside Blue and Millennium Jade are both known to fade, and the roof usually goes first. Panels are scarce and expensive, so correction gets measured, not guessed.

A80 Supra

Nineties Toyota clear coat, and Super White is a known offender for lacquer failure on the roof and bonnet. Worth establishing whether it is oxidation or delamination before anyone polishes anything.

EK9 / DC2 / FK8 Type R

Championship White is the hardest colour in the game. It yellows with age, it shows every wash mark, and matching a repaired panel to it is genuinely difficult. Protection matters more here than on any other colour.

S2000

Soft, thin paint that marks if you look at it wrong, plus a fabric roof that needs a different product to everything else on the car. The rear window is the part people ruin with the wrong cleaner.

FD RX-7

Thin clear over soft base, and thirty years of arch lip stone chipping. The pop-up headlight surrounds and the seams around them collect everything and are rarely cleaned properly.

GC8 / GDB Impreza

WR Blue Mica oxidises on horizontal panels long before the sides show anything. Gold wheels are usually the other job, and the inner barrels have normally never been touched.

Lancer Evolution

Mitsubishi reds fade hard and unevenly. Big rear wings mean an awkward set of edges and mounting points where water and polish residue both like to hide.

NA / NB MX-5

Early Classic Red is single stage. There is no clear coat, so every pass removes colour and the pad comes away red. Correct it once, protect it, and then stop.

GR Yaris / A90 Supra

Modern, but modern waterborne paint is thin too. These are new enough that coating them before anything needs correcting is the obvious move, and the cheapest one.

Anything else from Japan

Silvias, Celicas, MR2s, Integras, 180SXs, Cappuccinos, Jimnys. If it came from Japan and you care about it, send photos and we will tell you what we would do and what we would leave alone.

Show season

prep, booked backwards from your date.

Included

wheels off

Faces, barrels, calipers and arch liners. The bit judges look at and the bit nobody cleans. Booked as a separate service because it genuinely takes the time it takes.

Included

engine bay

Cleaned and dressed appropriately, not drowned in tyre shine. Plastics and hoses finished to look correct rather than wet.

Included

glass and shuts

Door shuts, boot channel, fuel filler, and the glass done last with two cloths. It is the difference between clean and finished.

Tell us the show date when you enquire, not the week before. Correction plus coating is a full day and a coating needs its cure window, so a car being coated on the Friday for a Sunday show is a car that gets rained on while it is still soft.
Find us

come and say hello.

Every job gets posted. If you want to see how a car was actually corrected rather than just the after shot, the process goes up as it happens.

Running a meet in Cheshire or south Manchester? Message us. We would rather turn up to yours than invent one.
Questions

jdm questions.

We work around them by hand and we do not machine near an edge we cannot replace. If a decal is already lifting we will show you before we go near it and let you decide. Period-correct trim that is no longer available is treated as unrepairable, because it is.
That is exactly why we measure. Paint depth gauge on every panel before any machine work, and if a panel reads low we either work it by hand or leave it alone and tell you why. On a car with original paint, leaving a defect is often the right call.
Often, but it depends what is causing it. Oxidation on top of the clear coat polishes out and stays gone. Clear coat that has actually failed and gone milky or started to flake cannot be polished back, and anyone telling you otherwise is going to make it worse. We will tell you which one you have before we start.
Yes. Tell us the date and we will book backwards from it, including the engine bay, wheels off, glass and the arches. Being ready the night before is the whole point.
パインワークス

send us your car.

Photos in daylight, the postcode, and tell us what you actually want out of it. We will give you a straight answer including when the answer is to leave it alone.

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